Buenos Aires: A unique city at the shores of the River Plate


This complex, energetic, and seductive port city, which stretches south-to-north along the Río de la Plata (River Plate) has been the gateway to Argentina for centuries. As a short note, it would be interesting for the reader to know that before being christened with such name, Río de la Plata was known by the European conquistadors as “Mar de Agua Dulce” (Sweet Water Sea), as Buenos Aires was named “Nuestra Señora de los Buenos Aires ( Our Lady of the Good Airs) by Spanish expeditionary Pedro de Mendoza in 1536 first, and re-founded by the also Spanish expeditionary Juan de Garay in 1580.

Porteños, as the multinational people of Buenos Aires are known, possess an elaborate and rich cultural identity. They value their European heritage highly--Italian and German names outnumber Spanish, and the lifestyle and architecture are markedly more European than any other in South America. One of the world's finest opera houses, the Teatro Colon, flourishes here on the plains alongside the river.
Porteños are intensely involved in the life and culture of their city, and they will gladly share the secrets of Buenos Aires if you lend an ear and relate your own stories in return.



Buenos Aires' physical structure is a mosaic as varied and diverse as its culture. The city has no dominating monument, no natural monolith that serves as its focal point. Instead, Buenos Aires is composed of many small places, intimate details, and tiny events and interactions, each with a slightly different shade, shape, and character. Glass-sheathed skyscrapers cast their slender shadows on 19th century Victorian houses; tango bars hazed with the piquant tang of cigar smoke face dusty, treasure-filled antique shops across the way.


The city's neighborhoods are small and highly individualized, each with its own characteristic colors and forms. In the San Telmo district, the city's multinational heritage is embodied in a varied and cosmopolitan architecture - Spanish Colonial design couples with Italian detailing and graceful French Classicism. La Boca's pressed tin houses are painted a rainbow of colors, and muralists have turned the district's side-streets into avenues of color.

For all its diversity, the elusive spirit of Argentina as a country is present everywhere in Buenos Aires. The national dance, the tango, is perhaps the best expression of that spirit--practiced in dance halls, parks, open plazas, and ballrooms, it is a dance of intimate separation and common rhythm, combining both an elegant reserve and an exuberant passion.

Some interesting attractions

The Palermo Gardens Complex & Zoo

More than a neighborhood with a park in it, Palermo has the feel of a park where some people happen to live. This wide, miles-long expanse of green open space along the waterfront exists within the city because it was once an enormous estate until the middle of the 1800s. While you'd need a long time to really see the entire complex fully, I have listed some must-see highlights.
The park contains the Rose Gardens, the Planetarium, the Patio, several museums, jogging trails, and far too many monuments to count. The area expands out beyond Jorge Newberry, the domestic airport, into the neighboring district of Belgrano. Easy to get lost in, you'll never need to worry, as cabs cruise the boulevards that cut through the park.
Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Gardens are a true delight, with a few acres of open space and a myriad of tree-lined walkways. A central greenhouse is often the location of rotating art shows, with young artists standing and sweating next to their artwork. Plants from all over the world are here, including many from Argentina and other parts of South America. They're signed with their local and Latin names, making for a fun lesson for kids as you walk along. Not all the paths are well maintained, however, so watch your step. If you're here without the kids, the gardens are also a romantic spot. Bring a picnic basket and share some quality time, as you'll easily see many of the locals doing.
Like the Recoleta Cemetery, this is another cat lover's dream, and you'll find plenty of women from the neighborhood coming to take care of these strays. The cats are also more playful and friendly here, and like to come up to visitors to be pet. Sit on a bench, and you'll very likely find one cuddling up next to you.
Zoological Gardens

The Buenos Aires city zoo features an impressive array of animals, including indigenous birds and monkeys, giant turtles, llamas, elephants, and a polar bear and brown bear habitat. The eclectic and kitschy architecture housing the animals, some designed as exotic temples, is as much of a delight as the inhabitants. A giant lake is close to the entrance of the zoo and is filled with pink flamingos hanging out near mock Byzantine ruins in the center of the lake. Overlooking the water is a building that resembles a Russian church, which contains monkey cages. Camels are surrounded by Moroccan-style architecture, and the kangaroo holding pens are painted with aboriginal designs. The lions, the kings of the jungle, are in a castle complex with its own moat. The most stunning building, however, is the Elephant House. Built to look like an Indian Temple, it is overgrown with vines to make you feel as if you are a jungle explorer and have come across an elephant sanctuary. They have three elephants: two are African and one is Asian.

The Asian elephant, named Mara, was rescued by the zoo after years of abuse at a circus animal. Having been caged too tightly, she suffers from an emotional illness, standing in one place while she shakes her head back and forth. The other elephants, named Pupy and Kuki, seem to take care of her, and will try to prod her along at feeding time and massage their heads against her. It is sad and yet interesting to watch the social behavior of these magnificent and enormous creatures. I recommend making sure to save time to see them.

Make sure to also see the polar bears, whose habitat comes with an underwater viewing area. All the caretakers are great with kids throughout the zoo, but here especially they take the time, at least in Spanish, to teach about the bears. They also feed the bears, and kids can watch them retrieve food from the water. In the back of the zoo is an enclosed jungle habitat full of various plant species that even has a waterfall and a rope bridge that a caretaker will lead you through. Giant bugs are also in display cases here. It's hot and steamy inside, just like the real jungle, and the interior is a labyrinth surrounded by plants, so keep an eye on kids because they can easily get lost.

Peacocks and some of the small animals are allowed to roam free, and feeding is allowed with special food for sale for US$1 to US$2 (50p-£1.05) at kiosks (stores). Animals on the loose will flock to your kids, and many of the cages have special feeding chutes where the animals will line up to greet them. Boats can also be rented on the lake in the front of the zoo, but at the time of this writing, they were making repairs. The zoo is a must for anyone, but especially families with kids. I recommend at least half a day to explore and a full day if you have kids.